a multitude of emotions


Hello from Zambezi! Thank you everyone who has posted to the blog already. Josh and Mateo read your posts to us this morning during breakfast and it was a very sweet way to begin our first full day in Zambia. Thank you for reminding us that we are loved, thought about, and cherished.

As posted earlier, we did make it to Zambezi after quite a bit of traveling. However, the welcome we received getting off of those bush planes instantly made our fatigue fade into the background.

Taxiing around the corner, I looked out of my window completely taken away. Easily a hundred people had gathered around the spot where our planes would let us off to welcome us to Zambezi. They were singing, clapping and cheering for us. A swarm of children ran up to the planes and pulled us out, taking us by the hand and hugging us from all sides. A group of Zambezi women sang to us “welcome to Zambezi” and another group of school age kids dressed in uniforms also sang to us. Being on the first plane, I had the opportunity to watch as the other planes landed and to see the surprise and overwhelming joy on the faces of my companions as the people of Zambezi surrounded them with love.

From that moment on, I have felt a multitude of emotions. I think this is because my head is trying to adjust to what my heart already knows. These people accept us as their family, especially the children who have claimed each of us as “their” brother or sister. They want to know us, they want us to read to them, to play with them or to simply walk with them hand in hand. Realizing that my presence can be a present has been both joyful and humbling for me. I don’t know quite yet how to make sense of it all. Hopefully, during our first reflection after dinner tonight I’ll be able to process the past two days a little more.

One thing is for sure though, I am thankful to be here in Zambezi and to be experiencing a new culture through the eyes of the people.  I can already tell that Zambezi is a special place. I’m looking forward to learning and discovering more each day.

Much love to family and friends of Zambezi 2013. Look out for daily blog posts from my companions.

Tamryn Aalvik, Class of 2015

 

Posted in Uncategorized | 22 Comments

Safe and sound in Zambezi

After two solid days of traveling, I’m writing to let you know that we have all arrived safely in Zambezi.  Two 10 hour international flights, endless hours in airports and a 3 hour bush plane later, we were welcomed through song and dance into the Zambezi community. As I write these words, I hear the joyful screams and laughter of hundreds of Zambezi children who are playing outside before we walk down to our first Africsn sunset.

You can expect a thoughtful reflection blog tomorrow, but for now, we are well and working to get settled into our new life. Thanks for your thoughts and prayers.

Dr. Josh Armstrong

Posted in Uncategorized | 23 Comments

Arrived safely in London

 

After our first ten-hour flight, with a multiplicity of personal movies at our fingertips, a microwaveable dinner, and beverages of our choosing, we land in London. As we creep slowly through security and a second baggage check, some being stalled and taking longer than others, our excitement slowly rises as the distance between us and our soon-to-be Zambezi home slowly diminishes away with each minute spent waiting in Heathrow during our six hour lay over. We try to stay awake to reset our biological clocks to Africa time with tea, company, and caffeine hoping that we can make it to our next flight without falling asleep. For many of us, this trip still feels surreal, a journey that we have anticipated for months, now in complete actuality. The excitement, nerves, lack of sleep, questions, and expectations weigh on each of us differently, but together we travel to beautiful Zambia to experience a world entirely different than the ones we have left behind. This past semester we all participated in our Intercultural Perspectives of Leadership course attempting to understand the lifestyles, ideologies, and philosophies we will come into contact with during our month away from home. Although we may have prepared with readings and discussions in the classroom, nothing can truly prepare you for a trip like this. The uncertainties we may have in the ways we will adapt to such a new environment fade into the happiness and giddy feeling we all get when thinking about being in Zambezi. “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.” So ask yourself, “Where does my comfort zone end?” Once you find it, jump across that boundary into the unknown…

We will be flying overnight to Lusaka, another ten hour flight, and then arrive there in the early morning. Our first full day in Zambia awaits. So much love to all of you who are home supporting us and wishing us well.

Mateo Trujillo, Class of 2014, Zambezi second-timer

Posted in Uncategorized | 23 Comments

GU Missioning Service

In the Gonzaga University Student Chapel, on the Monday of Spring Finals week, gathered students, faculty, staff and parents of the Zambia Study Abroad programs to participate in our “missioning” service.  We heard poems and verse from each program,  inspiring words from Dr. Raymond Reyes, and a blessing from Fr. Frank Case.  However, I was touched deeply by the reflection from student Brady Essmann, Zambezi ’12.

Brady articulated the advice of many Zambia alums: try to manage your expectations.  Just enter into the experience.  However, she had some thoughts on expectations that I found to be very insightful.  Brady shared with the gathering,

“So what can I expect, you ask?

In the most base way, expect to take shorter showers.

Expect to be pushed beyond the limits of your comfort in the best way.

Expect to be the happiest you’ve ever been with the least you’ve ever had.

Expect to get dirty. And expect to have to be okay with that. Be okay with the dirt.

Indulge in the happiness of the people around you.

Expect to feel exposed in the healthiest way.

Expect to arrive preparing to teach, and depart having learned more than you could ever imagine.

Expect to live in this concept of “Zambia time,” perhaps for many being departed from the distractions of technology for the very first time.

Expect to need to trust what your heart knows, even despite the desolate sights your eyes may see. Let you heart truly understand and feel what your head knows. Expect to look past the poverty to understand the meaning of kinship.

Expect to have your heart broken. And be changed, if you let it. Keep your heart wide. Your eyes open.

Wake up each day wondering, “what will I see today, who will I meet?” And be aware that every interaction you have, you have something to learn. And that’s not just in Zambia – while I may have learned it there, it is something I continue to cherish most about that experience because I know that this happens wherever I am.

Go expecting to find the beauty in the small things. Because those are the moments I remember most. A conversation over a cup of tea. A long walk home. A small hand intertwined with mine. A rusty, broken gate.”

I hope you will join us on this journey.  Each day, another Gonzaga student will be updating our blog as we work to accompany others in this learning experience in Zambezi.  Our journey begins Tuesday, May 14.

Dr. Josh Armstrong

Posted in Uncategorized | 7 Comments

Zambezi 2013

It’s been a little crazy lately. First world crazy. The kind of crazy that involves preparing for final exams, grading papers, packing for a journey, finishing a semester strong, spending time with friends and family.   In about ten days, 16 undergraduate students from Gonzaga University will embark on another transformative experience in Zambezi, Zambia.

We hope that you will follow along on this journey, that you will laugh and cry with us as we work to accompany others, develop new intercultural competences, and reflect on our leadership and impact in the world.  Students will be posting daily with reflections on this journey and we hope that you will walk a few steps with us along the paths of Zambezi.

Our Zambia Missioning Service is this Monday, May 6th at 4:30 pm in the University Chapel.  We hope that any Zambezi alums would join us as we bless the upcoming journey.

Dr. Josh Armstrong

Posted in Uncategorized | 3 Comments

A safe arrival in Lusaka

leaving Zambezi with Flying Missions

Dear parents, family and friends,

The students and faculty of our Gonzaga team have safely arrived in Lusaka after a morning flight from Zambezi with our partners Flying Missions Zambia. They will do some final souvenir shopping and celebrating in this capital city before departing Thursday morning for London and the journey back home.

I’m at a loss for words. As one who enjoys hearing myself speak (an occupational hazard), this is rare and frightening. For the past two months, I have had the incredible pleasure of studying, traveling and exploring Zambezi with a truly remarkable collection of Gonzaga students. We have laughed, we have cried, we have cried while laughing. We have been challenged in expected and unexpected ways. We have been supported by a community that can’t help but love us unconditionally. You have shared in these stories, so beautifully written by our students, on this blog. I know that you have been challenged and touched and I’m so thankful you were along for the ride.

I also hope to convey my thanks for allowing and supporting your students in this opportunity. “What? You want to go to Zambia?” Thank you for your trust. I recognize that it is not easy having loved ones so far away especially without the personal communication that we have come to expect.

I can honestly say that I have been changed by your students. They are remarkable individuals who have embraced living outside of their comfort zones and have tackled big questions without easy answers. Our evening reflections have been an amazing space for learning and processing our daily adventures. These students have been journaling about this experience like struggling dedicated novelists. They have also introduced me to relationships and realities in Zambezi, a place that I affectionately call my second home.

The Jesuits are fond of saying that a Jesuit education “ruins you for life.” I hope that this experience has ruined your students in all of the right ways. We have learned so much and will continue to learn from this experience. We have been thinking about Mother Teresa’s words that “There are no great things, just small things, done with great love.” I have been encouraging students to find these small things that will connect them to these relationships and lessons from Zambezi and integrate them into their lives. You can help by finding the time to truly hear their stories, see their photos, and ask them good questions.

I do hope that when you are next on Gonzaga’s campus that you will come by my office. I have a story about your son or daughter that I would love to share, and in many ways, we already know each other.

Kisu, mwane.

“Dr. Joshua” Armstrong

Posted in Uncategorized | 10 Comments

The Penultimate Post

As I write this on our group’s last full day in Zambezi, thoughts surge through my mind like bees being smoked out of a Zambia Gold beehive. There is so much going on, the education and computer groups graduate their students, we start to say our goodbyes to the many children and other wonderful Zambians we have gotten to know, we make the final trip down the dusty dirt road to the market, and we clean and pack up in the convent where we have made our home for the last three weeks. I could write pages upon pages upon every sentiment being stirred up from this adventure’s ending, but, alas, I don’t have that kind of time. Perhaps the most pressing issue then is: how do we return back home and keep the experience of Zambia close to our hearts?

There is a part of going home that we all look forward to. We have all missed our friends and families. We all have some food, drink, place, or comfort that we have been craving here in Africa as well. Still, going home is a daunting prospect for all of us as we have made Zambia our home for a month of our lives. We struggle to answer what part of this life in Zambia we can take back to our very different life in America. There are many differences in these lives that we fear.

The first-world comforts that we once took for granted now seem somewhat intimidating in their excess. The last month we have made our peace with cold showers, frequent (and always inopportune) power outages, meals that could take four hours for Mama Kwatu and her kitchen assistant to prepare, sleeping under mosquito nets, pumping our own drinking water, and taking the time to walk miles down dirt roads to get to where we needed to go. All the while we recognized that even then we still had privileges that most Zambians did not have: we could bathe regularly, we actually had electricity, our meals were steady and varied, we had bug spray and nets to protect us from pests, we didn’t have to walk to the well and carry a bucket on our heads when we needed water, and we had shoes and sandals instead of just bare feet. We came to appreciate simpler living and the people who found happiness with so much less material privilege than us. We are nervous about coming face to face with all the more privilege we have at home as we were already faced with the reminder of our privilege here.

The focus of our trip was accompaniment. This means that we did not come expecting to be savior figures. Before our trip we read about the many ways that foreign aid went wrong and most stories revolved around giving the materials to solve a problem for a day, but the groups did not stay to work with the people to confront the deeper issues. We recognized that the most powerful thing we could do was to meet the people of Zambezi at eye level; to work with them to together dig deeper into the problems they faced and also discover more about the ones we faced. This philosophy helped us come to genuine understandings of the deep joys and ills that both the people of Zambezi and us experience, but it required that we did not give “hand-outs.” When people came by begging for money for food or school, we were strongly encouraged not to give it to them as we would be perpetuating the unhealthy idea of the Westerner as the savior (when of course true progress can only come when those within the society organize towards the change). This was immensely difficult for most of us, as it meant not giving up a few dollars that to them could be a year of school. We found ourselves feeling indebted because of our privilege, but without a direct way to pay it off.

A good metaphor for our situation is the conclusion of the movie, “Saving Private Ryan.” In this World War II epic, a small squad is sent to retrieve Private Ryan as his three other brothers were killed and the US army did not want his mother to lose all of her sons. In the process almost all of the squad is killed and the captain of the squad, Captain Miller tells Private Ryan “Earn this… Earn it.” as his last words. The movie ends with Private Ryan as an old family man asking assurance from his wife that he was a “good man” and thus worthy of the sacrifices that privileged him with a life to live. He had nothing he could physically do for Captain Miller and the others who died; “earning it” meant that he embraced his privilege and made his life a life worth saving by raising a family with love and intentionality. Similarly we have learned of the limited good that can be achieved by sacrificing our own physical privilege. That approach has failed to create lasting change for many decades. We might feel ashamed of our own blessings but for us to simply forfeit them is not what the world needs.

I think in life we have two responsibilities: to carry our own personal crosses to the best of our abilities and to indulge in and appreciate our blessings. I think in America there is a great focus on the first responsibility but the second one rarely crosses our minds. We are raised to endure the daily grind, to be self-supporting, and to overcome the complications that come our way. Yet as the wealthiest nation in the world, why is it that we do not hear more comments like “Wow, my coffee really hits the spot today,” or “I’m so happy to have a roof over my head and a warm bed to sleep in,” instead of grumbles about a messed up order and mortgage rates? Why is it that as the standard of living continues to rise in first world countries, suicide rates also rise? It is disappointing when we fail to carry our crosses, but it is a dark irony when we fail to even enjoy the blessings we are given. How do we expect to improve other people’s lives when we ourselves have forgotten how to live?

Meanwhile, blessings in Zambia might be as small as having enough extra money to buy a coke, but they carry far in the terms of happiness. They know that each privilege they have is precious, so taking advantage of it is simply instinctual. There is so much to learn about what we have by what they lack. Early pregnancies, and social and financial pressures cause many Zambians to marry at early ages. In America where men and women have more equal rights and enough money to support themselves while they are single, do we take the precious time we have to search for a person we truly can love and care for or do we try to satisfy ourselves by the thrill of shallow romance? In Zambia, food is limited not only in quantity but also in variety. In America, where we have a cornucopia of food and drink to select from, do we expand our horizons by sharing new dishes with friends and family, or do we try to drown our problems with comfort food and cheap booze? In Zambia, democracy is a new construct and is still very flawed. In America, where democracy has grown for over two hundred years, do we involve ourselves in researching the issues that will decide our nations future or are we content to elect a national leader based on a well-broadcasted catchphrase? In Zambia, AIDS and HIV affects one in every six people, preventable diseases spread, and medical technology and care is underfunded. In America, where we have long average lifespans and have medicines for problems as small as headaches, do we take advantage of our strength to embark on adventures and in sports, or do we abuse our health as long as “it won’t kill us yet?” In Zambia, technology and material comforts are expensive and hard to come by. In America, where every Christmas we are bombarded with advertisements about new cars and iPhones, do we use these amenities to form greater connections and experiences with others, or do we use them to create a life devoid of interpersonal contact? The list could go on for many more pages…

All in all, the point is this: yes, Zambia, Africa, and the World could all benefit by us giving up some of the wealth we have. More than our wealth though, what Zambia, Africa, and the World really needs is our full and genuine selves. We can be ashamed of what we have and what we do by the contrast of what others do not have or do. We can mourn that the circumstances are unfair. But this will not change anything. Many times in Zambia, I have let my shame and my sadness separate me from the community of Zambezi and even my group members. Yet while perhaps I don’t “deserve” the incredible privilege I have, I am the one who has them and I am responsible to use them well. When I had cast my destructive shame off my shoulders and was genuine with others, I felt love and healing spread not only to myself but also to others. Whether it was praying the rosary up a tree on a whim and finding other Zambians joining me, or improvising a fried rice recipe without soy sauce and giving something small to those who missed their Chinese fix, or entertaining the tailor and shopkeepers by buying colorful shitanges to craft into ridiculous clothes, I felt I did some of the most good was done when I was silly and shameless, I felt I did some of the most good when I was just, me. God works in mysterious ways…

It is a strange burden to carry as the “privileged minority.” Yes we should be generous with all the excess we have. But above all, sometimes the most good we can do is to simply bring ourselves before the world; to carry our crosses and to appreciate our blessings as much as we can. Didn’t God show us we were an important part of the plan when it brought us into being? I have learned much from Zambia and have felt extremely alive so many times. I think the only part of this experience I can carry with me forever is the memories and the urge to try to try to continue living as fully as I can.

To end this labored post, as always, a simple quote from the ending of the greatest trilogy of all time, The Lord of the Rings, can summarize my sentiment. Frodo says to Sam as he leaves him to finish the last few pages of his book,
“My Dear Sam (Blog), you cannot always be torn in two (split between the guilt of being blessed with so much and the intent to live well and help others do the same), you have to be one and whole for many years. You have so much to enjoy, to be, and to do.” Your part in this story will go on.”

With Sincerity and Love,
-Kyle Holbrook
-Class of 2013

P.S. To all the parents and friends, thank you so much for your continued support of this blog by taking time to read and comment. I think that the rest of Group 2 will agree with me in naming the Watsons our blog M.V.P.s. We all smiled knowingly when we saw your names, as we knew that a thoughtful and extended response was to follow.

P.P.S. To all of Group 2, no words can describe how blessed I feel to have gone through this experience with all of you. I keep getting choked up as I remember when we all first started to get to know each other on the group retreat just about over a year ago. I had this overwhelming feeling of excitement about getting to dive into the unknown with such a great group of young men and women. I still wish I had more time to get to know you all even more. I hope that we all have the opportunities to continue to grow closer next year, even for those who will be apart from Gonzaga. In some ways it feels like I just met you all, and this is crazy, but here’s my num- oh you know the rest…

Posted in Uncategorized | 14 Comments

Remember to Look Up

As our hours in Zambezi are numbered and we embark on the ‘What now?” portion of our journey, I can’t help but be both haunted and empowered by a question posed during a night of stargazing from the water tower: “How do you end your time in Zambezi well?”

At the time I couldn’t comprehend a single scenario suitable for response. While I’d often thought of our final days and how I would feel, I’d reassure myself I still had time. I still had tomorrow. Stay here, stay present. But the time has come when I need to begin contemplating how I will process this experience. The time to evaluate where I have been in order to fully understand who I am and where I am going – in this instance, where I am returning. I don’t have any more tomorrows left. Recalling the question, I did have an initial reaction as to what I wanted at the end: contentment. But if my time in Zambezi has taught me one thing, it is to continuously “live the questions” and delve deeper into my thoughts and encounters. Did I truly want the simple satisfaction of mere contentment? What meaning is there in living if we do not actively seek to find it? Contentment became a passive word that I never wanted to settle into, a form I could no longer see myself working toward. When one is merely “content,” we fail to strive for the magis, a promise our group made at the onset of our journey together. When one is content, we stop asking “why” and start blindly accepting. When one chooses contentment, we are choosing to remain bound in Plato’s metaphoric cave, living life simply through the passing shadows of the truths we seek. When we are content, we allow life to happen while never stepping through the doorways that await us.

When content, we trick ourselves to believe that we can be certain, especially of self. Yet we should constantly be growing in self-awareness through our experiences, regardless of age, lest we should lack or forget sense of purpose and being. As humans, we are constantly “hungering for meaning in our lives” — and wasn’t it our dear pal Greenleaf who stated that “awareness is an awakener and a disturber” that can lead to such?

Among the endless uncertainties I am now facing, I find little consolation in the one thing I do know: describing this experience is going to be no easy task.

But, just as the act of living the experience is the easiest part of Being, the process of reflection and understanding is the most important. So for those of you at home who are anxious for a glimpse of our daily lives and the magic of not only our group but the Zambezi community, I will try. I will share stories and journal entries and video footage and camera cards. But right now it seems nearly impossible to translate into words the emotions I have felt and the scenes that have emblazoned my senses when words don’t seem nearly enough. But I will try.

First, I will try to explain the title of my blog. Perhaps it speaks to the obsession I hold for my Zambezi roomie Megan Dempsey, or perhaps to the fact that we are philosophical soulmates. But in actuality, the phrase is one I have not been able to shake since hearing it in Dipilata a week ago. The scene was one mentioned in entries prior: crowded around a campfire in a remote village as the beats of Zambian music penetrated our very souls. It was somewhere around the time while I was enjoying the violent pelvic thrusts of Mateo that Josh leaned over to our group and said “Don’t forget to look up.” He meant literally to take advantage of the night sky appears endless overhead, where galaxies take shape in the form of murky clouds. Figuratively though, I like to think of this phrase an awakener, an opportunity to seek awareness. Don’t forget to look up.

As I return home, I know I will eventually return to my daily routine, but I think I can end my time well in Zambezi if I remember to look up. To look up and see the beauty in the lessons we have learned from our time here and shall carry with us back to the United States, so much more than we can ever return to the people of Zambezi.
The awareness that there is so much to come of “being uncovered and exposed,” where it is “easy to be happy because it is easy to be free.” To look past the “heart wrenching condition in which many people are living,” as Jay and Stephanie expressed, and “recognize the good in a community living out its humanity in full.” To, through Analise’s reflection, to notice the moments of grace in your life, those precious encounters that though they may last only seconds, you gave or received love in a way powerful enough to feel blessed. To slow down, as Melissa noted, allowing ourselves to lose track of time and extrinsic worries as the only way to find inherent meaning in the bigger picture.

And for me, the greatest source of awareness, remembering to learn and recognize what one’s own heart needs – that we can’t always be strong for others, but rather admit our own humanity and be with others. And perhaps the hardest part of this is in the trust that must follow. Trusting that “all will be well” in the end. Believing what our hearts know rather than what our eyes see or our heads think.

The challenge lies then, as Mateo put it, in our “beautiful burden as a privileged minority,” a duty to act following this new awareness. The challenge for the soul who has loved, finding the balance in the uncontentment of a world we see with new eyes. We now stand from a new frame of reference. This question alone remains: What will we do now? In promising to continuously live THIS question, I see my time in Zambezi ending well.

Brady Essmann, fondly known as “Bread”
Class of 2014

As a side note (or novel, really) I just wanted to touch upon the institution of which this blog bears its very name: Gonzaga.

As a Gonzaga student coming from Missouri, people often question me as to how I ended up in the West. What quickly came to be my favorite question due to the conversation which ensued — “Why Gonzaga?” Many times I joke that it was both my parent’s greatest unbeknownst mistake and simultaneous blessing to let me visit Gonzaga my senior year of high school; because once I had seen the campus, looked in the faces of the students and felt a part of the community, there was no doubt in my mind it was where I was meant to me, where I would leave my mark. Where, one day, my heart would remain long after my feet had left. In many ways I feel this same connection with Zambezi.

While both circumstances physically took me from my parents, first halfway across the country and then the world (a debt to them which does in fact pain me most days), I know in my heart and that loved ones understand the everlasting consequence of my time at Gonzaga is the transformation into a more engaged and fully developed person – spiritually, intellectually, creatively, and now, globally.

For that, I wish to thank first my parents.

And all the parents and those back home who encouraged, in some cases allowed or even made possible for their daughters, sons, sisters, brothers, and friends to take part in this experience – for without them, my experience would not have been the same or nearly as impactful. This group has challenged me, asking the questions I didn’t know how to ask myself and pushing me to “stop thinking and just do” time and time again. They have been with me to work through the hard days and they have been support in moments of confusion and heartbreak, as there have been many of both. They have been alongside me as we search for greater understanding, entering in a probing conversation over a cup of tea or amidst giggles as we have perhaps become almost tooooo comfortable with one another. The fifteen of them (sixteen including a cameo appearance of John Meyers) have been with me to indulge in the happiness of the good, dance to the soundtrack of the awkward, laugh in the pure ecstasy of friendship. But above all of this, they have been inspiring people for others that I have been blessed to surround myself with. In simplest terms, this group of women and men make me better for having known them.

And, secondly, a thank you to GU.
It is rare to find an opportunity to satiate the innate calling for what is missing in our lives, a chance to “place us in the vicinity of the knowledge that leads to kinship.” The right time and place to “look up” from the distractions of our lives. Gonzaga provided the foundation, and Josh Armstrong provided the push. So for that opportunity, I say thank you. To Dr. Big D “Smooth Ride” Houghlum and Melissa for seeing US all at eye-level as adults and leading us through your genuinity. To Nolan Grady, our personal encyclopedia on Jesuit ideology, for always making the inappropriate joke, being willing to be a “diiiiiishhhhwaaaaashhaaaa” night after night, and for asking the hard questions our hearts most needed to answer. And to Josh, for putting the entirety of your energy into this program and exemplifying for so many of us the possibility of passion meeting professionalism for the greater good. And perhaps a thank you where it is most appropriate yet may be hardest to relay: to the people of Zambezi, for allowing us to share, explore, and reflect upon their own personal piece of Heaven, taking it into our hearts and making it our own.

For anyone contemplating to take this step in their life journey and apply for the Zambezi program or any cultural experience, I would say there is nothing more important. If you feel in any way stuck in a routine or pondering why there is a “void” or something missing as you look back on your life, consider stepping out of it. See through the eyes, walk the same steps, and feel the same pain as another. Uproot yourself from the potted-plant syndrome on the mundane and explore the unknown. Remember what it is to “love hard” and trust in the humanity of yourself, the love of others. Remember to look up.

Posted in Uncategorized | 14 Comments

Don’t Look Up

The power has just come back on in the small, tidy eating area of the Simoonga’s household. Alexander, the father of the family and a man with an open smile, low voice, and small scar on his left cheek is sitting across the table from Analise and I as we finish our dinner of nshima, dried fish, pumpkin leaves and beans with sweet potatoes and Recoffy for dessert. The light above us illuminates the cement room: several windows covered with clean white curtains, a table in the corner with a television proudly displayed upon it (along with Season Two of The Vampire Diaries, the preferred television show of Alexander’s oldest son, Domitt), and several pictures of Jesus hung on the white and turquoise walls. He is speaking of Heaven, a subject that has always elicited two reactions from me: hope and fear. Hope is always the first I experience, a warm feeling accompanied by the light-suffused images of my brother, grandparents, and friends who I have been told I might see again, when my proverbial “time on Earth” is done. Fear always follows, though the reason why is far less distinct. Perhaps I am afraid I won’t deserve it in the end, or maybe I worry it doesn’t exist; but tonight the fear never comes, not as I listen to Alexander’s voice, which emerges through the nighttime sounds of dogs barking, cars passing on the road outside, and the sports commentary of the Spain-France soccer game which flashes in the corners of my vision.

“I believe in making Heaven where we are,” Alexander is saying, “I believe that where we are, we make Heaven for ourselves by improving the things around us, by showing care for the things we have.” He remarks on the universal habit of looking up when talking about Heaven, as though it is a place that is suspended high above us, hiding behind a cluster of clouds, dodging the airplanes. He holds his long, creased palm several inches above the flowered tablecloth, and says, “For an insect that is looking up, this is Heaven, this space right here under my hand. But we people live in this space every day. What the insect sees as Heaven is not Heaven, it is where we are, it is Earth. Heaven is not a place that is so far away. Heaven is just here.” Spain scores a goal, and two dogs are fighting over some scrap of food outside; Alexander keeps talking and mosquitoes are making my ankles a buffet, but my mind is elsewhere, and somewhere within it the angelic images of sun-gilded clouds and white-robed figures of my departed loved ones have disappeared. My conception of Heaven is being rewritten within my mind:

It is a shower of dust particles suspended in the pink light of a Zambian morning; it is the pond littered with lily-pads and emblazoned with the sight of a red sun rising. Heaven is the shutter of surprise I experience when a hand shows up in mine unexpectedly. Heaven is being moved to tears. It is loving through confusion and often in spite of it. Heaven is walking alongside. Heaven exists in back-cracks and head scratches, small favors, and remembrances. Heaven dwells in hearts that listen far better than ears could ever hope to hear. Heaven is Mutinta covering me with a blanket when she thinks I’m still asleep. Heaven is Domitt teaching me how to make nshima under a multiplicity of stars. Heaven is Daniel’s wide smile, teeth as white and smooth as dominoes, and just as big. Heaven is in our great thankfulness for no-bake cookies and pizza (with cheese!), and it is in our unforgettable indebtedness to each other. It is Mateo’s depth; Brady’s commitment; Paige’s perseverance; Anne’s easy company; Dave’s insightfulness; Analise’s contagious positivity; Alex’s curiosity; Melissa’s sense of perspective; Kyle’s quiet strength; Erin’s exuberance; Kate’s laughter; Jay’s deep faith; Stef’s attentiveness; Nolan’s empathy; Josh’s awareness.

Heaven is all of these things, and all the things that I have failed to recognize, even now. If I have learned one thing from my time in Zambia, which is now so swiftly coming to a close, it is this: To find Heaven, don’t look up, because Heaven is simply God’s presence, and it is as Alexander said: “just here.” It has been with us the whole time.

Megan Dempsey
Class of 2014

P.S.
Mom – I can’t wait to give you a big hug when I get back! I’m excited to share clothes again, to drive you around and run errands with you, to grab Starbucks on our way to JP II, to sit in the sun, and to laugh at funny things with you again.
Dad – I have a big hug saved up for you too! I hope you’ve been looking up some good music to show me when I get home. I expect at least one night when we stay up much too late listening to all the songs you’ve tracked down since I’ve been gone. Maybe on our way to Illinois we can have a late night jam session. I’ll drive!
Erin – I literally can’t wait to see your face. I’ve looked back on the picture of us together here, and I feel like I’m living out what you said in the letter you left me. I can’t wait to see this experience through your eyes. I’m thinking we chow down on some souped-up minute rice, no-bake cookies, and blackberries while watching a movie marathon when I get back. I love you, buddy.

Everyone else: Thank you so much for supporting us and loving us through this experience. You are God’s presence as well, and we have felt your beautiful accompaniment all the way across the world.

Posted in Uncategorized | 10 Comments

Hear Me Roar: Womanhood in Zambia

Momma Kuwatu and the chindeles

Paige Brunett. Catholic. White. Female. The other night during reflection, we were each asked to name what identifies us. Personally, being female has never been an identifier that I have been terribly aware of. Of course, I love shopping, reading sappy novels and fawning over Channing Tatum, but I have never put much stock into the implications of being a woman. In Zambia, however, it is nearly impossible not to be hyper-aware of womanhood. At the Livingstone Museum, our tour guide (somewhat begrudgingly) noted the difference between male and female lions: lionesses do all of the hunting while the male of the pride, for all intents and purposes, lays around all day and offers protection in the event of a threat. Animal analogies aside, it seems to be a trend that African, particularly Zambian, women work incredibly hard for their families. It is easy to spot a Zambian woman: she is usually dressed in a long, colorful chitengi skirt, simultaneously cooking and cleaning, all with an infant strapped to their backs in another chitengi, often with other children running around; she could be walking along the main road with, again, a child on her back, balancing something on her head; she might be cooking nshima: an arduous process of grinding corn meal into a paste, a staple of the Zambian diet. These are just snapshots of the incredible strength of Zambian women. Sadly, however, this strength is often not appreciated by men. In their lessons, the heath group is constantly reminded that women feel that they do not have a voice. Their husbands are often unfaithful and deny to be tested for HIV, putting many at risk. Arranged marriages here are not uncommon and can include a dowry. These trends begin at a young age. It is not uncommon to see a small girl carrying a baby on her back. Often times when I ask young girls what they do for fun they respond, “Washing plates,” or “Cleaning clothes.” Even tonight at our “Cultural Dance Night,” when the girls got on stage, they faced the wall the entire time as they moved their hips in ways that I didn’t even know were possible. Beliefs about gender roles are deeply imbedded in most African cultures. At the same time, however, we have encountered many extraordinary women during our time in Zambezi.

Two in particular, Momma Josephine and Momma Kuwatu, are possibly some of the strongest women I have ever known. Momma Josephine, our Luvale instructor, has been a leader in Zambezi since she was in her twenties. Forty years later Momma J has been a political presence and advocate for multiple causes, all while raising eight children as a single mother. Josephine’s husband left her when she refused to engage in a polygamous marriage, another common occurrence here in Zambia. Though she lost two of her children, Josephine continued to be an example in the community. We got the opportunity to visit her home: though a modest mud-brick home from the outside, we could sense the love and memories on the interior. She showed us her fishing net, as she lives right on the river, and the well from which she and the other women of the community gather water for cooking and cleaning. I was shown what a strong woman Momma J was when, while we were teaching a mini-leadership class in Dipolata, Momma called out three young women sitting in on the class. Though our Luvale knowledge is negligible to say the least, it was evident that she was telling the girls that they, too, could be leaders. Watching Momma empower those three girls in a way that only she could was incredible.

Here in Zambezi, our meals are prepared by Momma Kuwatu. I was lucky enough to be the first in group two to be Momma’s helper, which entails going to the market and helping to cook lunch and dinner. During that time, I got to know Momma’s story. Momma arrived in Zambezi in 1992 after her parents passed away and got married soon after. Not only does she spend most of her day with us, she also has to take care of her seven children who range from sixteen years to nine month old baby Joshua. Momma is quiet, hardworking, and has a huge heart. She emits grace and patience, and I truly believe she cares for each one of us like her own children. Momma reminds me of my own grandmother who had seven children as well. Both momma and grandma are incredibly patient and put others above themselves always. Being around someone so selfless and caring is incredibly comforting. Momma truly spoils us by serving comfort foods from home like pasta, fried chicken, and, my personal favorite, banana bread with peanut butter frosting. While I was Momma’s helper, I even taught her how to make one of my mother’s specialties: potato latkes. Momma Kuwatu gives us a little bit of home, even on the other side of the world. It’s hard for me to understand why women like Momma Josephine and Momma Kuwatu aren’t fully appreciated, let alone praised, in this culture.

While being a black woman in Zambia has it’s own subtleties, being a white woman here has a completely different dynamic. We girls were instructed previous to the trip to dress modestly: that is, having our shoulders and legs covered while in public, which is the norm for most women here. However, we could be covered head to toe and still attracted male attention, due simply to the color of our skin. Cat calls and marriage proposals are a daily occurrence for us girls. Though harmless, the extra attention is uncomfortable. Today, I traveled to the market twice. The first time, I was accompanied by two men as well as another woman, an uneventful trip. The second, I was with two females. On this trip, a man followed us and asked multiple times if we were married, to which we answered ‘yes,’ and if we were faithful to our husbands. This man followed us for about thirty minutes until he got the message that we weren’t interested. Another group of men yelled, “I want to make you mine, come over here, I want to take you with me” from their car. I couldn’t help but note to Anne, as we were walking away, that this would not have happened had we either been men, or been with men. When we attended a Mikishi ceremony (a cultural dance) many drunken men attempted to dance with us girls, standing a bit too close and touching our backs and hair, and were only deterred when one of the men in the group told them that we were “theirs.” While this happens in the US as well, and these comments are harmless, it is apparent to me that because we are white women, this behavior is seen as okay to many.

These observations definitely do not represent the totality of Zambia, simply the musings of a Sociology major. As most of this blog indicates, we have been welcomed warmly by many and I truly feel at home here. As well, women are celebrated here in many ways. The birth of a baby is a huge celebration, and motherhood in Zambia is quite unique. For one, the babies and the mother and constantly touching for the first few months of life. Being strapped to their mothers back creates an immediate bond. Women comprise the majority of the choruses that have made masses so incredible and never fail to provide a bountiful, delicious meal. A few nights ago, we were asking what we would bring back to America, but not in terms of physical baggage. I will bring back an appreciation for my womanhood, as well as the incredible women in my life, who have instilled a sense of pride and dignity in me, simply because I am who I am. Paige Brunett. Loved by God and others. Chindele. Strong as only a woman could be.

Peace & Kisu Mwane,
Paige Brunett, Class of 2014

P.S.- Mom, David, Hannah, Josh, and Bill, I love you all, see you in a few days!

P.P.S- Dad- see you in July!

P.P.P.S- to all of the family and friends who read and comment on this blog, we can’t express how much we appreciate your love and support!

Posted in Uncategorized | 13 Comments